Gerusoppa- Harappa of Jains

Continuing our journey to explore the ARCHAEOLOGICAL HERITAGE, we bring forth a historical monument of the bygone era.

"Music, when soft voices die,
Vibrates in the memory,
Odors when sweet violets sicken,
Live within the sense they quicken”.

The soft vibrations of musical notes linger in our mind for a long time; the smell and beauty of flowers keep touching our senses even after they dry….

How true are these lines!! Past events set in motion the ripples of echo that would be heard a thousand and more generations to come. Knowledge of the past will enlighten and empower us to attempt greater achievements. History is a wise teacher and historical monuments bring to the forefront, the elegance and splendor of the bygone era. Here is one such place which reminds us of our glorious past. Who can afford to forget Gerusoppa?

Gerusoppa was a popular Jain centre between 13th and 16th centuries. It is situated 34 km from Honnavar. Historically known as Kshemapura, once the capital of SaLuva kings of Vijayanagara line, attained the golden peak in trade and commerce during the reign of Rani Chennabhairadevi, popularly known as Pepper Queen. This region is well known for its Cashew crop (Geru in Kannada) and historically known as “Bhallatakipura” (Bhallataka in Sanskrit means Cashew nuts), hence the name ‘Gerusoppa’(region of cashew trees).

Beautiful carvings on the star shaped platform and walls - steps leading to the doorway

Once upon a time, Gerusoppa area was known as Nagire Samsthana. Historical references state that 108 Jain temples existed at Gerusoppa spread over 700 acres. Unfortunately, Gerusoppa is in ruins today and only 5 Basadis have survived. Among them, Chaturmukha Basadi, Vardhamana Basadi, Neminatha Basadi, Parshwanatha Basadi, Mahavir Basadi are notable. But you all agree that these ruins are more beautiful than the buildings of modern era!!

Full view of Chaturmukha Basadi - Tranquillity redefined

The most important Basadi at Gerusoppa is CHATURMUKHA BASADI. It is in the midst of thick vegetation. If you travel on BH highway, along the Gerusoppa forest area you find boards displaying ‘Lion Tailed Macaque’ territory. Lucky you, if you see one or hear its sound. Cross the bridge in front of Sharavathi Tail Race dam, on the way keep your eyes and ears open for any sights or sounds of wild animals! Move ahead listening to the occasional tweets of birds, buzz of insects, rustling of leaves, you will reach a dodgy road, if it is rainy season you have to manage the puddles and slush all around!! Feel blessed on reaching the Basadi.

Serene and composed Thirthankara

Imposing front and side views of the Thithankaras - Chaturmukha Basadi

Jainism was at its peak in popularity, virtually becoming the state religion of Karnataka!! The Basadi has four identical doors in four directions leading to the Garbhagriha (Sanctum Sanctorum), hence the name CHATURMUKHA BASADI. It is built of granite and on star shaped platform. Each hall in front of the Garbhagriha has four thick pillars with a square base and hanging brackets on top. The Dwarapalakas carved in relief on either side of the four doorways wear tall crowns and each holding a club entwined by cobra. The Basadi also has other mural designs that are well executed with refinement. The outer wall of the Basadi has miniature models of temple Shikharas between empty niches.

The focal point of the fish eye  supposed to show the the exact place of the magic well !!

The CHATURMUKHA BASADI, a unique quadrangular structure, stands as a testimony to the art and architecture of ancient times. It was constructed in 16th century when An interesting legend says, there was a well containing special liquid in which if you dip iron, it would turn into gold!! Also the story says, the focal point of the fish eye which is carved on the wall of CHATURMUKHA BASADI supposed to show the exact place where this special well is situated.

Series of inscriptions lying near the Basadi

The temple complex consists of other stone inscriptions, stone images, a statute of Bahubali, broken carved lintels, Naga stones and many other carved stone pieces. Other Basadis can be identified only with the help of warning boards of ASI! The only monument which has remained the test of time and human greed is the Chaturmukha Basadi, beauty of which, even after 450 years, has remained marvelous inviting heritage enthusiasts.

Collage showing images of Thirthankaras, Bahubali seen around the Basadi  and deserted structures scattered around unprotected

Owing to its vast unexplored heritage and ruins, Gerusoppa is sometimes called ‘HARAPPA OF JAINS”. Ancient ruins give us a connection to the part that is visceral.

Imagine a brisk trading center hidden beneath the silent valley!! The fall off trade, defeat of the kingdom in the hands of the Portuguese, the fall of the Vijayanagar Empire, failure of Jainism to assimilate the life of local culture-all these won’t bother us more than the mute cry of each stone of the Basadi.

Who knows when this beautiful structure will crash down and the pieces of art become one among those scattered around!  No law, no rule, no force can save our monuments. Only self-realisation can.