Continuing our journey to explore the ARCHAEOLOGICAL HERITAGE, we bring forth a historical monument of the bygone era.
"Music, when soft voices die,
Vibrates in the memory,
Odors when sweet violets sicken,
Live within the sense they quicken”.
The soft vibrations of musical notes linger in our mind for a long time; the smell and beauty of flowers keep touching our senses even after they dry….
How true are these lines!! Past events set in motion the ripples of echo that would be heard a thousand and more generations to come. Knowledge of the past will enlighten and empower us to attempt greater achievements. History is a wise teacher and historical monuments bring to the forefront, the elegance and splendor of the bygone era. Here is one such place which reminds us of our glorious past. Who can afford to forget Gerusoppa?
Gerusoppa was a popular Jain centre between 13th and 16th centuries. It is situated 34 km from Honnavar. Historically known as Kshemapura, once the capital of SaLuva kings of Vijayanagara line, attained the golden peak in trade and commerce during the reign of Rani Chennabhairadevi, popularly known as Pepper Queen. This region is well known for its Cashew crop (Geru in Kannada) and historically known as “Bhallatakipura” (Bhallataka in Sanskrit means Cashew nuts), hence the name ‘Gerusoppa’(region of cashew trees).
"Music, when soft voices die,
Vibrates in the memory,
Odors when sweet violets sicken,
Live within the sense they quicken”.
The soft vibrations of musical notes linger in our mind for a long time; the smell and beauty of flowers keep touching our senses even after they dry….
How true are these lines!! Past events set in motion the ripples of echo that would be heard a thousand and more generations to come. Knowledge of the past will enlighten and empower us to attempt greater achievements. History is a wise teacher and historical monuments bring to the forefront, the elegance and splendor of the bygone era. Here is one such place which reminds us of our glorious past. Who can afford to forget Gerusoppa?
Gerusoppa was a popular Jain centre between 13th and 16th centuries. It is situated 34 km from Honnavar. Historically known as Kshemapura, once the capital of SaLuva kings of Vijayanagara line, attained the golden peak in trade and commerce during the reign of Rani Chennabhairadevi, popularly known as Pepper Queen. This region is well known for its Cashew crop (Geru in Kannada) and historically known as “Bhallatakipura” (Bhallataka in Sanskrit means Cashew nuts), hence the name ‘Gerusoppa’(region of cashew trees).
 |
Beautiful carvings on the star shaped platform and walls - steps leading to the doorway |
Once upon a time, Gerusoppa area was known as Nagire Samsthana. Historical references state that 108 Jain temples existed at Gerusoppa spread over 700 acres. Unfortunately, Gerusoppa is in ruins today and only 5 Basadis have survived. Among them, Chaturmukha Basadi, Vardhamana Basadi, Neminatha Basadi, Parshwanatha Basadi, Mahavir Basadi are notable. But you all agree that these ruins are more beautiful than the buildings of modern era!!
 |
Full view of Chaturmukha Basadi - Tranquillity redefined |
The most important Basadi at Gerusoppa is CHATURMUKHA BASADI. It is in the midst of thick vegetation. If you travel on BH highway, along the Gerusoppa forest area you find boards displaying ‘Lion Tailed Macaque’ territory. Lucky you, if you see one or hear its sound. Cross the bridge in front of Sharavathi Tail Race dam, on the way keep your eyes and ears open for any sights or sounds of wild animals! Move ahead listening to the occasional tweets of birds, buzz of insects, rustling of leaves, you will reach a dodgy road, if it is rainy season you have to manage the puddles and slush all around!! Feel blessed on reaching the Basadi.
 |
Serene and composed Thirthankara |
 |
Imposing front and side views of the Thithankaras - Chaturmukha Basadi |
Jainism was at its peak in popularity, virtually becoming the state religion of Karnataka!! The Basadi has four identical doors in four directions leading to the Garbhagriha (Sanctum Sanctorum), hence the name CHATURMUKHA BASADI. It is built of granite and on star shaped platform. Each hall in front of the Garbhagriha has four thick pillars with a square base and hanging brackets on top. The Dwarapalakas carved in relief on either side of the four doorways wear tall crowns and each holding a club entwined by cobra. The Basadi also has other mural designs that are well executed with refinement. The outer wall of the Basadi has miniature models of temple Shikharas between empty niches.
 |
The focal point of the fish eye supposed to show the the exact place of the magic well !! |
The CHATURMUKHA BASADI, a unique quadrangular structure, stands as a testimony to the art and architecture of ancient times. It was constructed in 16th century when An interesting legend says, there was a well containing special liquid in which if you dip iron, it would turn into gold!! Also the story says, the focal point of the fish eye which is carved on the wall of CHATURMUKHA BASADI supposed to show the exact place where this special well is situated.
 |
Series of inscriptions lying near the Basadi |
The temple complex consists of other stone inscriptions, stone images, a statute of Bahubali, broken carved lintels, Naga stones and many other carved stone pieces. Other Basadis can be identified only with the help of warning boards of ASI! The only monument which has remained the test of time and human greed is the Chaturmukha Basadi, beauty of which, even after 450 years, has remained marvelous inviting heritage enthusiasts.
 |
Collage showing images of Thirthankaras, Bahubali seen around the Basadi and deserted structures scattered around unprotected |
Owing to its vast unexplored heritage and ruins, Gerusoppa is
sometimes called ‘HARAPPA OF JAINS”. Ancient ruins give us a connection to the
part that is visceral.
Imagine a brisk trading center hidden beneath the silent valley!! The fall off trade, defeat of the kingdom in the hands of the Portuguese, the fall of the Vijayanagar Empire, failure of Jainism to assimilate the life of local culture-all these won’t bother us more than the mute cry of each stone of the Basadi.
Who knows when this beautiful structure will crash down and the pieces of art become one among those scattered around! No law, no rule, no force can save our monuments. Only self-realisation can.
Wonderfull place....
ReplyDeleteThe 'Chaturmukha Basadi' is said to be of the Star shape when viewed from the top. Architecture of those days are a wonder. Only when all the four doors of the basadi are opened, we can see the Tirthankaras. It is said that during the construction of the top of the Chaturmukha Basadi, war broke in the region and hence the construction could not be completed. It was a good populated town at the era of Rani Chennabhairadevi, with thousands of well (now most of them are closed) in the surroundings.
ReplyDeleteThe environment is lush green and cool. I wish this wouldn't be in ruins. The archaeology department has now taken over this place for research. Hope this place can be restored. :)
Beautiful place...worth visitng
ReplyDeleteHi...
ReplyDeleteThis is a beautiful place. We want to visit in during our visit to Jog falls. Could you help us with a map location please?
Some group of Jains after the fall of Jain kingdom of Gerusappa settled at Halkar in Kumta Taluk as Gunagas
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteಇನ್ನೊಂದು ರೋಚಕ ಉದಾಹರಣೆ ಈ ಗುನಗರ ಕಾಲ ಬುಡದಲ್ಲಿಯೇ ಇದೆ.ಕೆದಕಲು ದೂರ ಹೋಗಬೇಕಿಲ್ಲ. ಇಂದಿನ ಹಳಕಾರ ಗುನಗಾ ಸಮಾಜ, ಸುಮಾರು 500 ವರ್ಷಗಳ ಹಿಂದೆ ಹೊನ್ನಾವರ ತಾಲೂಕಿನ ಗೇರುಸೊಪ್ಪಾ ಗ್ರಾಮದಿಂದ, ಕುಮಟಾದ ಹಳಕಾರಕ್ಕೆ ದೊಡ್ಡ ಪ್ರಮಾಣದಲ್ಲಿ ವಲಸೆ ಬರುತ್ತಾರೆ. ಹೀಗೆ ಬರುವಾಗ ಇವರು ತಮ್ಮೊಟಿಗೆ ತಮ್ಮ ಆರಾಧ್ಯ ದೈವ ಜಟಕ, ಮಾಸ್ತಿಗಳನ್ನು ತಂದು ಹಳಕಾರದಲ್ಲಿ ಪ್ರತಿಷ್ಠಾಪಿಸುತ್ತಾರೆ. ಅಲ್ಲದೇ ತಾವೂ ಅಲ್ಲೇ ನೆಲೆಯೂರುತ್ತಾರೆ. ಈ ಮಾಸ್ತಿ, ಜಟಕಗಳನ್ನು ಜೈನ್ ಮಾಸ್ತಿ, ಜೈನ್ ಜಟಕಾ ಎಂದು ಈಗಲೂ ಜನರು ಕರೆಯುತ್ತಾರೆ. ಇಲ್ಲಿ ಅನೇಕ ಪಶ್ನೆಗಳು ಉದ್ಬವವಾಗುತ್ತವೆ.. ಗೇರುಸೊಪ್ಪಾದಿಂದ ಇವರು ಯಾಕೆ ದೊಡ್ಡ ಪ್ರಮಾಣದಲ್ಲಿ ವಲಸೆ ಬಂದರು? ಹಾಗೆ ಬರುವಾಗ ತಮ್ಮೊಟಿಗೆ ಯಾವ ಆರಾಧ್ಯ ದೈವಗಳನ್ನು ತಂದರು? ಜೈನ್ ಮಾಸ್ತಿ, ಜೈನ್ ಜಟಕಾ ಅವರ ಆರಾಧ್ಯ ದೈವಗಳು ಹೇಗಾದವು? ಹೀಗೆ ವಲಸೆ ಬಂದವರು, ಕುಂಬಾರರೇ ಅಗಿದ್ದರೆ, ಹಿಂದು ದೇವರನ್ನು ಯಾಕೆ ತರಲಿಲ್ಲ? ಅಂದರೆ ಹೀಗೆ ವಲಸೆ ಬಂದವರು , ಆಗ ಜೈನರೇ ಅಗಿದ್ದರೆಂಬುದು ಖಾತ್ರಿಯಾಗುತ್ತದೆ. ಆಲ್ಲದೇ ಇವರು ಬಂದ ಹೊನ್ನಾವರ ತಾಲೂಕಿನ ಗೇರುಸೊಪ್ಪಾ ಗ್ರಾಮವನ್ನು ಕೆದಕಿದರೆ, ಆ ಊರಿನಲ್ಲಿ ಪಾಳು ಬಿದ್ದ ಜೈನ್ ಬಸದಿ, ಜೈನರ ಗತ ಸಾಮ್ರಾಜ್ಯ, ಅಲ್ಲಿ ಆಳಿದ ಜೈನ್ ರಾಣಿ ಚೆನ್ನಭೈರದೇವಿಯ ಇತಿಹಾಸ ಇತ್ಯಾದಿಗಳು ಹಳಕಾರ ಗುನಗರ ಜೈನ್ ಮೂಲವನ್ನು ಒತ್ತಿ, ಒತ್ತಿ ಹೇಳುತ್ತವೆ. ಪ್ರಶ್ನೆಗಳು ಇಲ್ಲಿಗೇ ಮುಗಿಯುವದಿಲ್ಲ. ಹೀಗೆ ವಲಸೆ ಬಂದ ಇವರ ವೈವಾಹಿಕ ಸಂಬಂಧ ಅದಾಗಲೇ ಗ್ರಾಮದವರು ಕೊಟ್ಠ, ದೇವರ ಪೂಜೆ ಮಾಡಿಕೊಂಡಿದ್ದ, ಗುನಗರೊಟ್ಟಿಗೆ ಬೆಳೆಯುತ್ತದೆ ಎಂದರೆ ಇಬ್ಬರೂ ಒಂದು ಕಾಲದಲ್ಲಿ ಜೈನರಾಗಿದ್ದರೆಂದು ಖಡಾಖಂಡಿತವಾಗಿ ಹೇಳಬಹುದು. ಅದಕ್ಕೇ ಹಳಕಾರ ಗುನಗರಿಗೆ, ಬಾಕಿ ಗುನಗರ ಹಾಗೆ ಊರ ದೇವರ ಪೂಜೆ ಇಲ್ಲ. ಇಬ್ಬರೂ ಬೇರೆ, ಬೇರೆ, ಜೈನ್ ಪಂಗಡಗಳು. ಸುಮಾರು 500 ವರ್ಷಗಳ ಹಿಂದೆ ಹೊನ್ನಾವರ ತಾಲೂಕಿನ ಗೇರುಸೊಪ್ಪಾ ಗ್ರಾಮದಲ್ಲಿದ್ದ ಅಂದಿನ ಜೈನರು ಅಂದರೆ ಇಂದಿನ ಹಳಕಾರ ಗುನಗಾ ಸಮಾಜದವರು ಯಾಕೆ ವಲಸೆ ಬಂದರು,? ಬರಬೇಕಾಯಿತು? ಎನ್ನುವ ಪ್ರಶ್ನೆಗೆ ಮುಂದೆ ಓದಿದರೆ ಉತ್ತರ ಸಿಗುತ್ತದೆ.
ReplyDeleteಮೊದಲು ಜೈನರಾಗಿದ್ದ ಗುನಗರಿಗೆ ಅರ್ಚಕ ವೃತ್ತಿ ಹೇಗೆ ಬಂತು? ನಂತರ ಹೇಗೆ ತುಳಿತಕ್ಕೊಳಗಾದರು? ಹೇಗೆ ಅರೆ ಕುಂಬಾರರಾಗಿ ನಂತರ ಹೇಗೆ ಪೂರ್ಣ ಪ್ರಮಾಣದ ಕುಂಬಾರರಾದರು? ಇವೆಲ್ಲ ಹೀಗೆ ಆಗಿರಬಹುದೇ? ಹೌದು ಎನ್ನುತ್ತಾರೆ ಗುನಗಾ ಸಮಾಜದ ಚಿಂತಕರು.
ನಮ್ಮ ಹಳಕಾರದ ಗುನಗರ ವಿಷಯದಲ್ಲಿ ಆದುದ್ದೂ ಇದೇ. ಇವರು ಮೂಲತಃ ಹೊನ್ನಾವರ ತಾಲೂಕಿನ ಗೇರುಸೊಪ್ಪಾದವರು. ಇದರಲ್ಲಿ ಎರಡು ಮಾತಿಲ್ಲ. ಜೈನ್ ರಕ್ತದ ಇವರು, ಸುಮಾರು 500 ವರ್ಷಗಳ ಹಿಂದೆ, ಗೇರುಸೊಪ್ಪಾ ಸಾಮ್ರಾಜ್ಯವನ್ನಾಳಿದ ಮೆಣಸಿನ ಕಾಳಿನ ರಾಣಿಯೆಂದೇ ಪ್ರಸಿದ್ದಳಾದ ಜೈನ್ ರಾಣಿ ಚೆನ್ನಭೈರದೇವಿಯ ರಾಜಾಶ್ರಯದಲ್ಲಿದ್ದವರು. ಈ ಜೈನ್ ರಾಣಿಯ ಪತನವಾದಾಗ, ಅಲ್ಲಿದ್ದ ಜೈನರುಗಳೆಲ್ಲಾ ದಿಕ್ಕಾಪಾಲಾಗಿ ಹರಿದು ಹಂಚಿ ಹೋಗುತ್ತಾರೆ. ಇದು ಅಂತೆ ಕಂತೆಗಳ ಸಂತೆಯಲ್ಲ. ಇತಿಹಾಸ..ಆ ಸಂದರ್ಭದಲ್ಲಿ ಹಾಗೇ ಉಟ್ಟ ಬಟ್ಟೆಯಲ್ಲಿ ಕುಮಟಾದ ಹಳಕಾರಕ್ಕೆ ವಲಸೆ ಬಂದ ಒಂದು ಗುಂಪೇ ಇವರು. ಹೀಗೆ ಬಂದ ಇವರು, ಅದಾಗಲೇ, ಗ್ರಾಮಸ್ಥರ ಅನುಗ್ರಹದಿಂದ ದೇವಸ್ಥಾನದಲ್ಲಿ ಅರ್ಚಕ ವೃತ್ತಿಯನ್ನು ಗಿಟ್ಟಿಸಿಕೊಂಡಿದ್ದ, ಕರಾವಳಿಯ ಇನ್ನೊಂದು ಜೈನ್ ಗುಂಪು ಅಂದರೆ ಇಂದಿನ ಗುನಗರೊಟ್ಠಿಗೆ ಬೆರೆಯುತ್ತಾರೆ.ಯಾಕೆಂದರೆ, ಆ ಸಮಯದಲ್ಲಿ ಇಬ್ಬರೂ ಜೈನ್.